Vitoria -> Laguardia, 53km
Away by 8:30am. At west end of railway station see signs for Logroņo, but lose signs at a crucial intersection on the edge of Vitoria. We confirm we are on the right highway with two separate locals but 4km up the road at Berrosteguieta finally see a highway id sign that tells us that we are on the wrong road! Backtrack to town. Grrr! An hour down; climb steadily past rubbish tip and over Puerto Vitoria (778m). Descend to Ventas de Armentia and stop for a coffee. The blue sky and sunshine are most welcome after the last few weeks of mainly grey skys as we roll through undulating countryside reminiscent of Tuscany. After Peņacerrada we hit some 14% gradients on the hot climb to Puerto Herrera (1,109m). Drop rapidly down into the region of La Rioja Alavesa by the Ebro river. Cloud chills us on the way down. Near Laguardia, see the impressive buildings and landscaping of Bodega Heredad Ugarte and stop to taste their wines. The woman presenting the wines is very professional and friendly, rapidly swapping between Spanish and English to suit the audience. Accompany the wine with chorizo and bread for 1.30€ At the tasting we meet Peter (NZ) and Cathy (Aus) and discuss wine and promise to visit their Blue Pyrenees Estate out of Melbourne. Continue to Laguardia, a walled town perched on a strategic hill surrounded by vineyards.
We eat lunch at Restaurante Biazteri; a 9€ menu includes a Basque potato/chorizo/paprika dish and paella, beef/patatas fritos and lamb patitas, santiago tart and café, and vino. Visit information centre and get a bed at Camas for 30€ Wander the well-preserved, car-less medieval streets to the Torre Abical (Abbot’s Tower), around garden on exterior of wall, through Puerta de San Juan. Excellent views of the surrounding vineyards, bodegas and mountains of the Sierra de Toloņo Mendilerroa that we crossed earlier in the day. Visit bar in town square for a cervesa/vino. Visit the interior of the Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Reyes (C XII - C XV), watch the sunset from the western edge of town. Visit the Vinoteca Mayor de Migueloa for vino de casa at just 0.90€ a glass. Stop at another local bar on the way back to Camas.
{Mayor de Migueloa, Consecha}