Muros -> Santiago de Compostela, 68km
Rain in night and a poor sleep (the sound of waves on the beach couldn’t mask the duff-duff-duff from someone’s car stereo at a nearby lookout point) mean we don’t rise till 8:30am and get away by 10am. A few k’s into Muros for groceries, and good riding by the seaside to Tal and Esteiro where we stop for coffee at a café with an excellent view over the water. Continue via Crucero de Roo, Serra de Outes to meet the C543 heading inland and back east. A steady climb in drizzle and fog is numbing. Stop at lunch time in a blink-and-you-miss-it town but don’t hang around. The weather improves and the road levels out through farmland. We lose height to Urdilde, Os Anxeles and Bentamiráns by which time the farmland has given way to urbanisation. Endless roundabouts and signs and increasing traffic brings us to the pretty centre of Santiago de Compostela, the destination of thousands of Christian pilgrims. Walk the bikes to the information centre, seeing an impressive number of hikers and cycle-tourists. Try hostel recommended by LP, but it is full, so settle for pricier Café-Bar Girasol. We wander the streets, seeing lots of restaurants with meat and seafood displayed in the windows, and wandering musicians in formal garb. Down a few beers and vinos (Ribeira Sacra Tinto. Casal de Vela, Godello. Rioja Santiago, Crianza 1999). Go for the 9€ menu at our hostel.
{Fuxon os Ventos, Galicia, tinto}