We start with 10km back down the valley to Soulom, then utilise the smooth and straight ‘piste cyclable’ to Argelès-Gazost. After shopping for groceries, we partake of café in the pleasant and active main square bordered by cafés and bars. Leaving, we are immediately into a hot, hard climb to Arras, then we turn to […]
The threatened thunder storm never arrives overnight. We wake at 7am, and the dense valley cloud burns away by the end of breakfast. We pack up camp and leave our gear behind the office. Sans baggage, we pedal out of Cauterets to La Ralliere and an impressive cascade then make the steep climb beside the […]
Raining when we awake, after a tremendous thunderstorm in the night with lightning every few seconds and thunder reverberating around the cirque. We felt very exposed alone on our wee knoll. In the morning the river was flowing silty grey and several additional waterfalls had appeared on the cirque. We leave around 9:30am with a […]
After a relaxed start to the day, we head off on the wide walking trail past the Hôtellerie du Cirque to view la Grande Cascade up close. At 423m it’s the highest in Europe (but not as high as NZ’s Sutherland Falls at 580m). We soak up the excellent views of the 1,500m face of […]
Up at 6:30am to see the impressive Pic du Midi lit pink in the dawn. The initial gradients of 8%, 9.5% and 10% are all manageable in the cool of the morning and we pass several cascades to reach the ski-resort of La Mongie in just over an hour. The place looks tacky and dusty […]
Day 70. Up at 6:30am but our get-away is delayed by another flat rear tyre for Jonathan (is that eight times now?!) Start climbing immediately after leaving Arreau up pleasant 5-7% gradients in the cool of the morning with good views up the Louron and Aure valleys. The climbing is never too steep and the […]
Immediately into solid climb bside the One river to through unspectacular farmland to Garin, then choose the quieter D76 to the final switchbacks to the Col de Peyresourde (1569m). Have a coffee in the café there. A fun, smooth descend on gentle gradients. Stop at Bordères-Louron for information and cruise the local market, but make […]
A rest day in Luchon. A lardon and capsicum omelette for breakfast (a change from our usual rice-pudding powerfood). Cruise the Saturday morning market and eat our picnic lunch accompanied by chilled rosé beside locals at the permanent market. Watch the last 45 minutes of the All Blacks vs South Africa, quaffing Leffés at Le […]
Rise early and climb (mercifully without gear) to the village of Artigue to commence VTT trail #3. We emerge from valley cloud for brilliant views of the Superbagnères ski area and the surrounding mountains. We traverse above the Granges de Saint-Jean on farm roads, then cross a stream into forest and gently climb to the […]
Up around 6am after no bear encounters during the dark night (minimal moonlight) and with no water remaining. Drop down zig-zags through herds of sheep and goats and replenish water at Melles. Cross the border into Spain on route N230 and find a big shopping center near Lers. At busy Bossost we brew up rice-pudding […]
Used the alarm on Jonathan’s mobile to awake to a clear sky. Gently climb beside la Bouigane river past a good-looking campground (not mentioned in LP) near Augirein. Stop in St-Lary for a banana-break, then a steady climb to the village of Portet-d’Aspet and an even steeper climb to Col de Portet d’Aspet (1069m). At […]
Sleep in, then hand-wash all our cycling gear and pray for sun as valley cloud is lingering. Walk into Castillon and find a regular morning market so buy some local potatoes, capsicum and olives. Chat with German cycle tourists. Ride down valley to St-Giron to do some internet and visit the Intermarche in St-Lizier. Grind […]